We had a wonderful opportunity to tour northern Arizona by car. In just one week, we experienced the awesomeness of some of the most scenic areas of America, and relived the history of the west … Indian encampments and ghost towns, saloons and mining camps, rangeland and fence lines, rail stations and Route 66.

One of our stops was Volcano National Park. Seeing the massiveness of lava flows spread across the landscape was amazing: black lava barrenness side-by-side while stately trees grow where the hot rock stopped.

We visited ancient pueblos cut into the mountainside hundreds of feet above the valley floor. Dizzying heights, intricate paths and tiny caves attest to the Native Americans’ ability to survive and protect themselves in a harsh environment. Standing on a rocky out-cropping and seeing the spiderweb of trails that led down the mountain or looking up at ladders leaned against pueblo dwellings hundreds of feet above us on the cliff face gave a greater understanding and appreciation of all the native Indians lost in America’s western expansion.

We spent two nights in a little town called Williams, originally an outpost for the pony express, then the railroad. It’s so small, there are no streetlights, only a single stop sign smack in the center of the main intersection! Following a western-style hold-up and shootout in the town square, we boarded a train to the Grand Canyon, very touristy, very fun. (Be sure to get pullman seating - it’s worth it.) Singing cowboys, a hold-up on the return trip, complimentary drinks and snacks, and a tour of the Canyon made for a full day, returning to the lodge for the night. There’s a bar on the main street of Williams called Pancho McGillicuddy’s, attesting to the influence of the Mexicans and the Irish in the building of the railroads and the town. (Also the best Queso we’ve ever had! And chilled shrimp by the bucket!)

We spent a day driving through the Painted Desert and the Petrified Forest, possibly the only place in America where it’s a federal offense to pocket a rock! Rock selling is BIG business, and companies obtain licenses to mine the petrified pieces and create souvenirs of all sizes - for a price. (We paid $4 for a pretty piece that sits on the windowsill in my kitchen.) Massive rock logs lie scattered across acres of barren land … sparkling colors of the mesas at sunset … a variety of cacti and other native plants as we climbed into the high country and back again.

For a real thrill, we met ourselves coming and going along the switchbacks that allow the road to reach the tiny silver mining town of Jerome. Not quite a ghost town, it’s now an artists’ colony perched on the side of the mountain - literally. Many of the buildings are held (semi) level with pilings braced against the hill because of the steep terrain. We visited a glass-blower (purchased a beautiful souvenir), several other artisans and galleries, and toured the mansion and gardens at the peak - the home of the mining company’s owner. The history was fascinating and the view spectacular! There's a model of the mining operation and equipment. We were grateful it’s not what we have to do for a living!

We spent a delightful afternoon in Prescott - a real ‘western’ town. (Having been raised on John Wayne westerns, all things ‘western’ are almost sacred, and Prescott is definitely ‘western’.) The historic district has several authentic wooden buildings located around the square, and we saw the famous oak bar. When fire swept through the town in the early 1900’s, locals banded together to carry the massive piece out of the saloon and save it from the fire. The rest of the town burned! But the bar was OK - and soon established in a tent, until the town could be rebuilt (with brick this time). Let the drinking continue!

We spent two days in Sedona: red rock country and a very artisan town, roaming the streets in search of unique pieces and bargains then took a drive along the canyon. Sedona is GREEN unlike much of northern Arizona’s high desert. An oasis. And a beautiful spot to relax and refresh.

Oatman, a blip of a ghost town along famous Route 66, where Clark Gable spent his honeymoon (not very plush by today’s standards!) and donkeys roam the streets … where our 21 year-old daughter was held at gunpoint by a bunch of outlaws! - ‘You keep the camera, we’ll keep the girl!’ Folks in town were very friendly, pointing out bullet holes in the saloon wall, telling tales of hold-ups and shoot-outs, and selling carrots to feed the donkeys.

As a sidelight, almost all development in Arizona is based on the availability of water. Both Williams and Flagstaff were initially settled about the same time, but Flagstaff became a growing community, and then a city, because of their water source. It was also interesting to us (being from one of the original thirteen colonies) that buildings on the National Register of Historic places are all from around the early 1900’s - not the 1700’s. There’s a two-hundred year historical transition from east to west! (PS. If you like Mexican food, try Cilantro’s in Flagstaff - the best steak fajitas we’ve ever had - anywhere!)

For more than three decades, Ruth Seebeck and her husband, Ed, have been encouraging, coaching, mentoring and teaching friends, family, neighbors and strangers to find a more enjoyable and fulfilling lifestyle. As avid travelers, gardeners, history buffs and expert organizers, they share lifestyle tips, topics, and travel expertise at www.touringwithus.com
© 2006 by "DiscoveringArizona Inc."   ·   All Rights Reserved   ·   E-Mail jayq@discoveringarizona.com 
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